Posts tagged Maintenance
Filters, lights, powerheads, heaters, protein skimmers, air pumps, water pumps, uv-filters etc., more or less constantly consume energy.
Based on a freshwater fish only aquarium at about 72 F, the total consumption for a small tank (10 Gallons) is about 150 kWh a year. A medium tank (30 Gallons) will run between 150 – 200 kWh per year, while a large aquarium (55 Gallons) needs 200 – 400 kWh per year. These values are calculated while considering the basic equipment required and serve as an average only.
The biggest consumption is used for the lighting system which accounts for approximately 45% of the total bill. Usually the heater comes in second at about 35% of the total cost. Filters commonly run at about 12% while airpumps, etc. account for the remaining 8%. Again this is based on the average aquarium setup.
Lighting is the only component in the aquarium that doesn’t run on a 24-hour shift. Furthermore, the lighting expenses can easily be controlled by the lighting time as well as the equipment we use.
The common fluorescent light bulb (15 – 40 Watts) that is provided with most hoods doesn’t significantly add much cost. Planted tanks with higher lighting requirements that use power compacts (30- 100 Watts) or VHO fluorescent bulbs (75 and 160 Watts) and/or a combination thereof obviously will lead to higher power consumption. A reef tank may even run on metal halides which run from 150 – 1000 Watts – and that will quickly add to the bill.
Heating an aquarium can also be expensive. The larger the tank the more heat is required. Further, a tropical fish environment usually requires a higher water temperature making it more expensive to heat compared to non-tropical fish tanks. For example, a 30 Gallon tank heated at 72 F (22 C) will consume approx. 110 kWh per year. The same tank heated at 82 F (28 C) will consume about 440 kWh per year. That is 4 times as much!
Water pumps start at 3 Watts and easily go up to 400 Watts depending on the gallon per hour (gph) rate.Some ball park rates are 10 Watts for 200 gph and 30 Watts for 300 gph. 150 Watts can be consumed by 600 gph and up.
Powerheads, air pumps and filters are low in consumption starting at only 3 Watts and generally not exceeding 25 – 50 Watts for the heavy duty models.
UV filters run between 8 – 130 Watts and up.
Generally spoken, a fish only aquarium runs on a rather low cost. Tank size will matter and add on cost, so will a more and more densely planted tank, a saltwater tank and ultimately the reef tank.
To save on the energy cost and consumption, lighting can be adjusted to more energy efficient bulbs and a change in lighting. A planted tank may do just as well running on a 100 Watt bulb instead of a 150 Watt bulb. This would already be a savings of 1/3 of the total lighting cost.
In many cases the heater can also be turned down by a degree or two without affecting the fish. This can safe a lot of energy in the long run. In well heated environments a heater might not even be necessary during the day or heating period.
Water pumps can be reduced to lower gph ratings the same applies to uv-filters.
Choosing energy efficient equipment and comparing them with other makes and models can yield substantial savings in the long and sometimes even short run.
To calculate the energy consumption of your aquarium, you will need to know the watts per equipment and the overall running time. The running time of the heater can either be observed in measuring the actual running time or by estimating. 15 minutes out of every hour (6 hours total per day) for lower temperatures or 30minutes out of the hour (12 hours total) for higher temperatures. This will of course vary greatly, depending on your room temperature.
Watts multiplied by hours will give you the daily wattage per equipment. (1000 Watts equal 1 kWh) The cost of 1 kWh can be found on most electric bills. The cost of one kWh should be calculated by adding up all the rates that end with “per kWh (that will include the transmission, distribution, and generation charges).
Watts x hours x kWh cost x 30 = monthly electrical cost of the aquarium
The exact usage of electricity for each piece of equipment can only be determined by actual readings using an ampmeter, which measures the actual energy used and not the energy based on the maximum output. The formula will provide an approximate cost only.
Information provided by Algone http://www.algone.com/
Origin: S. America: Peru and Columbia
Maximum Size: Up to 5 inches.
Care: Enjoys having plenty of open swimming space, and, caves or plants for hiding the water should be fairly soft, slightly acidic (pH 6-7), the temperature should be 22-25oC (72-77oF)
Feeding: Carnivore/Insectivore, but will take various flake, pellet and frozen foods. Breeding: No detailed accounts and doubted to have occured in captivity.
Comments: One of the most popular catfish, it has a striking spotted pattern and long barbels. They are not aggressive, but avoid keeping with fish small enough to fit in in their mouths – They may not be there in the morning! Often feed in a somewhat frenzied scatty manner, which may alarm calmer fish. They are more active by day when kept as a small group. Do not use nets to catch these fish, as they have sharp spines which will become entangled.
Scientific name:Chromobotia macracanthus (Bleeker, 1852)
Common name: Clown Loach
Synonyms: Botia macracantha, Cobitis macracanthus, Chromobotia macracanthus
Distribution: Malay peninsula, Borneo, Sumatra
Sexual dimorphism: Mature fish deepen considerably and females tend to be bulkier. There are various theories about caudal fin lobe shapes being different, but these are inconclusive.
Feeding: Defrosted frozen bloodworms, white mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, etc; chopped prawns are appreciated by larger fish; manufactured sinking wafers (algae, carnivore wafers…), fresh or blanched vegetables such as cucumber, zuchinni, lightly boiled peas. Other keepers have had success with foods such as watermelon and banana, quality flake food. Will enjoy nibbling at soft or fine leaved aquatic plants.
Water parameters: pH 6.5 – 7.0, Hardness: aim for softer water, Maximum DH: 12
Temperature: 78ºF to 83ºF (25-30°C)
Breeding: No confirmation of natural breeding in the aquarium. Some forced reproduction through the use of hormones on fish farms in the tropics is rumoured. It is known that they are raised by such methods in the Czech Republic.
Maximum size: 16 inches
Care: This is a wonderful loach, but too large for most hobbyist aquariums. Allowed a minimum of 75 gallons or more, young Clown Loaches thrive in groups. They require large turnover, efficient filtration systems and current supplied by additional power-heads, frequent water-changes and great attention to cleanliness in the aquarium.
The tank should have subdued lighting, a soft, preferably sand substrate, and numerous hiding places provided made from rock-work or driftwood. Plants should be strong and resilient because large Clowns can be hard on them. They may uproot them, or punch holes in the leaves. Plant species must be capable of low-light environments.
Clowns are somewhat nocturanal in nature and often very lively in the early morning and after dusk. The addition of a blue moon light tube, or some other form of blue lighting, phased to come on before the main lights, and go off after them, will allow the owner to observe the fish at their most liveliest and entertaining. This will also avoid the fish being shocked by a sudden change in brightness.
|References and Further Reading|
|Bailey, M; Burgess, P. Tropical Fishlopedia. Howell Books, New York, NY; 2000.
Burgess, P; Bailey, M; and Exell, A. A-Z of Tropical Fish. Howell, New York, NY; 1998.
Burgess, WE; Axelrod, HR; Hunziker III, RE. Dr. Burgess’s Mini Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, NJ; 1997.
Alderton, D. The Complete Guide to Tropical Aquarium Fish Care Howell Books, New York, NY; 1998.
Many situations can arise in an aquarium that demands immediate attention from the hobbyist in order to protect the fish and invertebrates that are housed within. Described here are warning signs of an emergency, the equipment you should have to determine what the problem is, and equipment necessary to correct it.
- Fish behavior
The behavior of the fish should be your first indication of problems within the aquarium. Some of the signs to watch for
- Rapid breathing
- Irregular movements
- Color loss
- Unusual markings or growths
- Fish stop eating
2. Environmental changes
Changes in the general appearance of the aquarium can also be an indication of water problems. Some of the typical signs related to imbalances in water chemistry include:
- Poor growth or death of plants
- Cloudy water
- Water with a strong smell
- Increased algae growth
Equipment to determine the problem
- Test kits
A quality test kit should always be on hand and should include tests for ammonia, nitrite, pH, nitrates, phosphates, and a
- hydrometer if it is a saltwater aquarium.
The following is a general guideline to the problems that the different water parameters can cause in the aquarium along with a solution. Compare the warning signs that your aquarium exhibits to the following, and test those parameters to determine if they are the culprit.
- Ammonia and nitrite:
Excess amounts of either of these nutrients can be responsible for all the signs listed above. If toxic levels of either are present, perform 25% water changes daily until the values return to zero, and incorporate a chemical
ammonia neutralizing media into the filtration.
The pH of the aquarium water can be responsible for all the signs listed above. If abnormal, perform a 25% water change and add the necessary pH buffers.
Excess nitrates in the aquarium will lead to excessive algae growth as well as health problems with the fish at high levels. Perform 25% water changes with nitrate free water weekly, and incorporate a nitrate reducing chemical media into the filtration.
Phosphates encourage algae growth, cyanobacteria in saltwater, as well as inhibiting the calcification process within corals and coralline algae. Perform 25% water changes with phosphate free water weekly, and incorporate a phosphate adsorbing media into the filtration.
Water changing equipment
Keep on hand all of the equipment that you need to perform a water change. This equipment should include:
- Siphon hose
- Buckets or garbage cans large enough to hold at least 25% of the aquarium’s water capacity
- Power head or air pump, for aerating the make-up water
- Heater and thermometer, for make-up water
- Dechlorinator, if using tap water, and salt for a saltwater aquarium
- Chemical medias
The following chemical medias are useful in both emergency situations, as well as general maintenance:
- Ammonia neutralizing medias
- Activated carbon or organic removing resin
- Phosphate and nitrate adsorbing media
- Toxic metal or copper remover
- Appropriate pH buffer and spare media bags
A hospital aquarium is a separate aquarium that is much smaller than the main aquarium, and used to medicate ill fish, and for quarantining new fish before acclimating them to the main display. One of the Eclipse systems ranging in size from 2 gallons up to 12 is an excellent option. This system will need to have a heater and thermometer, preferably a dark colored gravel, and some form of shelter for reducing stress on the fish.
If any of the fish in the aquarium show signs of disease, it is important to transfer them to the hospital aquarium. In the event that illness should become evident in the aquarium, having a broad range of treatments on hand will help save valuable time in combating the illness.
The medications that we suggest for emergencies are:
If copper is used, you will also need a copper test kit to monitor the levels within the hospital aquarium.
Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff
(South American and West African cichlids; bettas and gouramis; tetras, barbs, danios, rasboras; etc.)
- 6.0 to 7.0 PH
- soft to moderate water
- 76° to 82°F
- no salt needed
- aquascape plants; driftwood; inert rocks (quartz, slate, granite, onyx, etc.), gravel, and sand
African Rift Lake Fishes
(cichlids and other fishes from the rift Lakes)
- 7.5 to 8.5
- hard to very hard PH
- 74° to 80°F
- Rift Lake salts (if needed to increase hardness and pH)
- aquascape soluble rocks, gravel, and sand (dolomite, limestone, coral rock, lace rock, tufa rock)
Central American Fishes
(Central American cichlids, livebearers, cave tetras, catfish, etc.)
- 7.0 to 8.0 moderate to hard
- 74° to 82°F
- many species are salt-tolerant
- aquascape plants; driftwood; all rocks, gravel, and sand (soluble and non-soluble)
Brackish Fishes (monos, scats, some puffers, mollies, gobies)
- 7.8 to 8.0 ph
- moderately hard water
- 74° to 82°F
- specific gravity 1.001 to 1.012
- Aquascape salt tolerant plants (anubias, Java Fern,Mangrove) Driftwood; all rocks, gravel, and sand
Marine Fishes (all coral reef fishes)
- moderately hard water
- 76° to 84°F
- specific gravity 1.025
- Aquascape live rock; macroalgae; soluble rocks, gravel, and sand
All parameters and values are suggested approximate preferences only; wide variability and adaptability exist among species and individuals within each category.
An overstocked aquarium is an aquarium that either has too many fish, or is too small for the few fish it has, even if that is just one to two large fish.
There are general rules of thumb for stocking both freshwater and salt water tanks, but these rules are impacted by many factors and must be adjusted as such. They are also based on very small fish and don’t apply to fish that grow large.
A safe rule of thumb for small-to-medium freshwater fish is 1″ (2.54cm) of fish per 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) of water, and for marine, 1″ (2.54cm) of fish per 5 gallons (19 liters). In both cases one should use the adult or eventual length the fish will reach. Not the length when purchased. Otherwise your fish will outgrow your aquarium. A medium fish can be considered up to 4″ (10cm) full grown.
Fish that grow very large count exponentially more than fish that remain small. They require more swimming space and better filtration. They produce more waste and are often aggressive if cramped. A deep-bodied 18″ (45.7cm) fish, for example, requires a minimum 250 gallon (946l) tank to be able to turn comfortably and have a little swimming space. That’s about 14 gallons (53l) per 1″ (2.54cm) of fish! By this example you can see how the rule of thumb escalates dramatically for larger fish.
Since surface area affects the oxygen exchange in a tank, tanks that are taller and narrower support fewer fish than tanks that are longer, even if both tanks hold the same amount of water. Also, most fish swim horizontally, not vertically, so width is more desired than height.
Tanks that are overstocked will not only provide a stressful environment for the fish that will likely lead to disease, but overstocked tanks produce a lot more work for the aquarist. Maintenance must be done more often on a tank that is overstocked.
Signs that might point to an overstocked tank are:
* Fish are aggressive.
* Nipped fins or split fins.
* Disease seems a constant factor.
* Maintenance is required more than 1-2 times a month.
* Nitrates keep rising even with 25-30% monthly water changes.
If your tank is overstocked there is a way out. Most local fish stores will gladly take fish off your hands for credit if the fish is valuable, or as a courtesy, if not. Either way you win by reducing the population in your tank. Check with your local fish store before bringing in any fish. Or if you really want all the fish you have, you can consider upgrading to a larger tank.
Overstocking is the most common mistake made, and the costliest to fish and aquarist alike. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to care for fish and being unsuccessful for all your efforts. If this sounds like you, your tank may be overstocked. Reduce the population and see how much more rewarding the hobby can be. Your fish will appreciate it too!
The welfare of aquarium fish is a topic that is rarely discussed in books, magazines, fish shops or veterinary clinics, yet it is a topic that urgently needs to be addressed. With the increased availability of quality aquarium products and fish, the hobby of keeping aquariums has grown astronomically in the last fifty years. It has become a very serious hobby and even a livelihood for many people. Many dedicated aquarists maintain clean, healthy, environmentally correct tanks and give the utmost care to their fish. These hobbyists take great pains to provide proper water conditions, nutrition, housing, and natural environments for their fish. They treat sick fish and do not accept a fish dying as a normal aquarium occurrence. These dedicated aquarists are to be commended, but unfortunately, for every one of them, there are many that do not provide adequate care for their fish.
A dedicated and caring aquarium owner does not have to have a thousand-dollar tank filled with exotic species. Even the simplest, properly maintained tanks can house healthy, well-cared-for fish. While there are cases of fish neglect and poor care with an experienced aquarist, the majority of the problems arise in the beginner’s tank.
Fish are pets, too
To put the fish welfare problem into perspective, let us compare it to a pet owner that purchases a puppy or kitten. If the new puppy owner took the puppy home and confined her to a small cage, sporadically fed her vegetables, failed to treat her when she became sick so eventually the puppy died, and the owner went back and got another puppy and did the same thing all over again, what would we think? Of course there would be a huge public outcry. It would be very obvious that the welfare of these animals had been violated every step along the way. Yet the same thing happens every day in the tropical fish industry, only instead of a puppy, the victim is a fish.
In another situation, let us ponder what the public would say if wild canines were being captured out of the wild. Let us take wolves, for example. These animals would be captured from the wild, caged, and transported to a retail market for sale as caged pets. During the transport, the stress and handling of the animals would result in a 50% death loss. Of the wolves that survived, another half of these would die soon after placement in their new homes from disease and improper nutrition. Few of these wolves would breed or live a normal life expectancy. We could argue that the ones that did survive would be free of the dangers of predation in the wild, and furthermore, the industry responsible for providing these animals provided much needed income for the indigenous people that gathered them. Of course we would not agree with this. We would not think that this was a humane or justifiable action, nor would we feel that the welfare or ecological community of the wolves was even remotely considered. Yet in the harvesting of some wild tropical and marine fish, this is exactly what happens.
Fish are not dogs, nor are they wolves, birds, or turtles, yet the welfare of animals, particularly domestic or captive animals kept as pets, should not discriminate across species lines. In fact, when we take an animal into our care, we are even more obligated to look out for the welfare of that animal, and fish are no exception. Some people that speak against animal welfare argue that it is anthropomorphic to compare our feelings with that of animals, but the argument for improved welfare of fish is not comparing them to humans, it is comparing them to the way we treat other pets.
Why is fish welfare neglected?
Despite the lack of concern over the welfare of fish, I do not feel that it is done out of cruelty, but merely out of ignorance. Fish and aquariums are very complicated. While it is easy to fill a tank full of water and put some fish in it, any experienced aquarist will tell you that the proper maintenance and care of an aquarium is extremely challenging and complicated. People that provide proper care for their fish have educated themselves and work very hard to understand the specific biological needs of their fish, and then meet those needs. An experienced aquarist does not tolerate sick or dying fish. If a fish dies, something is drastically wrong. The answer is not to just go out and purchase another fish, but to find the exact cause of the death or illness and correct it.
Many fish owners do not realize what is involved in setting up a tank. They do not know the pH level, water hardness, temperature, substrate preference, or nutritional needs their fish require. Without understanding these basics and how all of these affect the health of the fish, they cannot even begin to have a healthy tank. That is not the fault of the fish, but the owner.
I still hear the argument that fish do not feel pain like animals do. Despite the repeated scientific studies that have shown otherwise, this outdated argument still shows up as an excuse for ignoring the fish’s welfare. Interestingly enough, the same argument that animals do not feel pain was taught for years in veterinary schools and used as an argument against providing pain relief during procedures on cats and dogs. While we may find this hard to believe, it was not that long ago, and the same argument is still being used about fish today. Despite exhaustive evidence showing pain and stress responses in fish and no studies to refute this, some people continue to cling to this argument.
The welfare of aquarium fish is often neglected for a multitude of unique reasons:
* We generally do not touch or feel the fish.
* Fish do not respond to people except during feeding or out of fear.
* We cannot hear or communicate with fish.
* Fish cannot cry out in pain, bark to draw attention to their needs, or purr to show affection.
* In a sense, fish are very easy to ignore if we choose.
* In addition, they are cold-blooded and are ‘different’ than mammals.
All of these things make it easy for us to rationalize that their needs do not require the same consideration that other more vocal, easy to touch, warm-blooded species do. When you combine this with the fact that we have been taught that it is okay to ignore the welfare of fish and that the solution to a dead fish is to ‘just buy a new one, it is easy to see why we have the problem that we do.
What can be done?
None of this, however, absolves us from our responsibility as a fish or pet owner. It is the responsibility of every fish owner to provide the best possible care for his or her fish. Collectively, as a group of aquarium owners, it is also our duty to educate beginning aquarists, so that they have the knowledge and tools to provide the best in fish care and promotion of fish welfare. If private aquarium and fish store owners took a hard stance against companies that sell and display unhealthy and poorly-cared-for fish, they would soon go out of business. At the same time, if the same people insisted on humane captive-rearing methods and lowered mortality in production, these trades would drastically improve, or cease to exist. The welfare of fish affects every single aquarium owner and is something that drastically needs improvement. It is an issue that we should all be concerned with and work hard to improve.
The Blood Parrots have been in the market for many years but became
very common in the recent years. This hybrid was first created in Taiwan
in late 80s and since it is one of the most popular cichlid in many
countries. How it was created is still shady but according to some
breeders the blood parrot is the offspring of the severum with the red
devil cichlid or the Midas cichlid and the Vieja synspila. There are more
types of parrot cichlids available in the market, bubblegum parrot
cichlids and jellybean parrot cichlids are not “pure” blood parrot but
hybrid between parrot cichlid and convict cichlid. The blood parrot
available in a variety of colors, bright yellow, orange and red.
Unfortunately these cichlids are painted and available in purple, blue,
green and other hurtful colors. It has a very small mouth and a “balloon”
shaped body, its eyes are large and they can not close their mouth
all the way.
Scientific Name – Parrot fish are man made hybrid therefore it doesn’t have a scientific name.
Family – Cichlidae
Origin – Only found in aquariums
Size – Up to 20 cm
First discovered – Man-made cross-bred cichlid
Nutrition – Blood Parrots will eat a variety of foods. Flakes, pellets frozen and live foods. Frozen foods such
as bloodworms are its favorite.
Behavior –Semi- aggressive
Maintenance and care – The blood parrot should be kept in large tanks, a 60-70 gallon fish tank will be
sufficient. The tank should be decorated with rocks and woods to provide hiding places. Blood Parrots
cichlid will do best with a softer substrate, as they like to dig. Hardy, bitter plants (Anubias, Microsorium
and Echinodorus) can be used if live plants are desired. The great part of keeping blood parrot is the fact
that they can be kept with other cichlids and with peaceful community fish such as Cory’s and large tetras.
Water Parameters – Temperature: 70F-82F (21C-28C), pH: 6.5-8.2
Breeding – Male blood parrots generally are infertile but some parrots have been known to breed. In most
These charts serve as a general guideline. Tropical Fish are individualistic, aggressive, & opportunistic to a certain degree. Make sure to stock your fish at appropriate sizes, don’t over-crowd, keep them well-fed, and above all, under close constant observation.
Q & A
Q: What does “reef safe” mean?
A: Reef Safe is a broad term given to
marine fish that will not damage coral
and do not readily consume small fish