Aquarium Maintenance Service and Sales
Archive for October, 2009
The Good Goldfish Guide – Moors and Globe-eyes
Oct 30th
Chris Ralph and Arthur Marshall look at the Moor and the Globe-eye in their series on selecting show-quality goldfish.
let’s compare the Globe-eye goldfish with the Broadtail moor:
The Broadtail moor
The Broadtail moor as we know it today was developed by members of the Goldfish Society of Great Britain over many years.
A number of so-called “moors” are available in the trade, including the fantail and butterfly, but none match the standard of the true Broadtail moor which has been considered the height of fancy goldfish perfection for a long time.
Ensuring that your stock maintains its true jet-black coloration has always been the main goal. The true Broadtail Moor also has globe eyes, a feature which has been perfected over many years – achieved by out-crossing two other species of globe eyed fancy goldfish.
The Globe-eye
This particular fish in its present form shows nacreous (calico) coloration. There are also metallic forms of this fish available to the hobbyist. This fancy variety is very rarely seen at the various open shows that are held throughout the country. This fish is the the emblem for the GSGB.
As with a few other varieties the interest seems to have waned in recent years, with the majority of Globe-eyes offered for sale from imported stock (this does not include the Broadtail moor).
Unfortunately unless more fishkeepers are prepared to devote some time to breeding this fish, the numbers will get smaller.
In the USA Globe-eyes are referred to as Telescope-eyes. This particular variety was first seen in the UK in the mid-1920′s.
There are of course some Veiltail forms which exhibit the globe eye feature as well. This latter form was developed over many years by enthusiasts within the GSGB.
As with most other varieties of fancy goldfish both the Broadtail moor and the Globe-eye thrive on a mixed and varied diet that includes good quality flake, pellets, earthworms and other live/frozen foods such as bloodworm and daphnia. Live aquatic plants are also another good source of food.
Both these varieties are ideally suited to a large aquarium, with sufficient space. A standard 24″/60cm aquarium would be suitable for three fish only.
By providing these fish with the correct living conditions they will give many years of pleasure.
Goldfish Standards
Within the Goldfish Society Standards the Broadtail moor and the Globe-eye can be found in “group three” along with the Veiltail, Oranda and Redcap. The standards include descriptions for each of the goldfish varieties and include a “type test” for each one.
The type test for the Broadtail moor is as follows:
> The depth of body should be greater than 2/3 body length.
> The eyes should be projecting from the surface of the head.
> The dorsal fin should be single, all other fins paired with the caudal fin divided.
> The trailing edge of the caudal fin should have no apparent fork or pointed lobes.
> Minimum length of the caudal fin should be 3/4 body length.
> The extremities of the other fins should have a rounded appearance
> Minimum length of body should be 21/4″/55mm.
Any fish that fail the type test would be severely downpointed at a show, while deformities and major defects may result in disqualification of that fish. The fish should be bright and alert with the dorsal fin carried erect.
The eyes should be prominent with good development and be well matched. The body should be short with a smooth outline. The caudal fin should be well divided.
A good quality fish will show jet-black coloration only with no trace of brown or silver.
The type test for the Globe-Eye is as follows:
> The depth of body should be greater than 2/3 body length.
> The eyes should be projecting from the surface of the head.
> The dorsal fin should be single, all other fins paired with the caudal fin divided.
> The trailing edge of the caudal fin should have a fork, 1/4″-3/8″.
> The minimum length of the caudal fin should be 3/4 of the body length.
> The extremities of the fins should have a pointed appearance.
Any fish that fail the type test would be severely downpointed at a show, while deformities and major defects may result in the disqualification of that fish. The fish should be bright and alert with the dorsal fin carried erect.
The body should be short with a smooth outline. The caudal fin should be well divided. The eyes should be prominent with good development and be well matched.
A good quality fish will have high colour intensity extending into the fins.
Nudibranch
Oct 28th
Florida regal goddess nudibranch
Photograph courtesy Gary’s Reef Marine Sanctuary/NOAA
Nudibranch range
Fast Facts
Type: Invertebrate
Diet: Carnivore
Average lifespan in the wild: Up to 1 year
Size: 0.25 to 12 in (6 mm to 31 cm)
Weight: Up to 3.3 lbs (1.5 kg)
Did you know? Some nudibranchs are solar-powered, storing algae in their outer tissues and living off the sugars produced by the algae’s photosynthesis.
The bottom-dwelling, jelly-bodied nudibranch (NEW-dih-bronk) might seem an unlikely canvas for Mother Nature to express her wildest indulgences of color and form. But these shell-less mollusks, part of the sea slug family, bear some of the most fascinating shapes, sumptuous hues, and intricate patterns of any animal on Earth.
There are more than 3,000 known species of nudibranch, and new ones are being identified almost daily. They are found throughout the word’s oceans, but are most abundant in shallow, tropical waters. Their scientific name, Nudibranchia, means naked gills, and describes the feathery gills and horns that most wear on their backs.
Generally oblong in shape, nudibranchs can be thick or flattened, long or short, ornately colored or drab to match their surroundings. They can grow as small as 0.25 inch (6 millimeters) or as large as 12 inches (31 centimeters) long.
They are carnivores that slowly ply their range grazing on algae, sponges, anemones, corals, barnacles, and even other nudibranchs. To identify prey, they have two highly sensitive tentacles, called rhinophores, located on top of their heads. Nudibranchs derive their coloring from the food they eat, which helps in camouflage, and some even retain the foul-tasting poisons of their prey and secrete them as a defense against predators.
Nudibranchs are simultaneous hermaphrodites, and can mate with any other mature member of their species. Their lifespan varies widely, with some living less than a month, and others living up to one year.
A small piece of our world in the 2nd Largest Aquarium
Oct 26th
| Built Area | approx.10,000m² |
|---|---|
| Total Area | approx.19,000m² |
| Building Structure | Reinforced-concrete, 4-stories high |
| Aquarium Size | Total water quantity 10,000m³ |
| The Largest Tank | Kuroshio Sea 7,500m³ |
| Total Number of Tanks | 77 |
| Water System | Seawater is taken from 350m off shore, at a depth of 20m. |
| Maximum Water Intake Rate | 3,000m³/ h |
| Water Intake Method | Intake Pipe |
| Diameter of Intake Pipe | 1.8m |
| Electric Supply | The Aquarium complex generates its own power( 2000kW) and also uses commercially available electricity( 500 kW ). |
| Filtration System | Closed high-pressure filtration system |
| Intake Water Filters | 3.2m in diameter x 8 units |
 Filter Material |
Polyester fiber |
| Circulating Water Filters | 2.8m – 3m in diameter x 65 units |
| Filter Material |
Silicate sand |
Credits
Video: Jon Rawlinson
Music: “Please Don’t Go” by Barcelona
Location: Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium in Japan
Created by: The Creator
This is what we’ve been given. What are we going to do with it?
Under Gravel Filter Maintenance
Oct 26th
This is just one way to consider if you have an under gravel filter (UGF).
Q: How do you folks feel about under gravel filter, I have not cleaned mine in 2 1/2 years. The mess under the stone is awful. The ammonia is fine pH seems normal. I am thinking to remove it and clean under there and wondering if I should put it back in.
A: There is nothing wrong with UGFs, but people either swear by them or swear at them. Personally I don’t use them except for a little one gallon tank where most other filters are impractical.
Do you have the tank on a stand that allows you to see the bottom of the tank? Iron stands and many wood stands made for aquariums don’t have a top on the stand so when you open the cabinet and look up you can see the through the bottom glass of the tank. If you have that sort of setup, I have a nifty trick that might work for you.
Get a long piece (like 6 feet) of clear tubing from your local hardware store. Not too big in diameter because you want it small enough to snake down the uplift tubes of your UGF and flexible so it bends fairly easily. Now find a ball bearing or a small nut. Silicone glue it to the side of the tubing at one end. You might be able to slip the nut over the end of the tube, but put a little glue to hold it in place.
Now snake the ball bearing end of the tube down the uplift tube until you see it under the plate when you look up through the bottom glass. Start siphoning out water. Now here is the nifty/fun part. Get a magnet and from the underside of the tank you can now direct the tube anywhere you want (because of the ball bearing) under the plate to get to all the built up gunk.
Don’t worry about getting it all in one cleaning since you would likely have to siphon out all the water to get close. So just do this each time you change water until it is back in reasonably good shape down there.
From Patrick Timlin, for About.com
Lionfish
Oct 24th
Although the lionfish is considered a delicacy in certain countries, however, it is prized mostly in the aquarium trade, mainly due to their spectacular looks. There are various types of lionfish available in aquarium stores such as the feathery lionfish, radial lionfish, Fu-Manchu lionfish, dwarf fussy lionfish, dwarf lionfish, and the volitan lionfish. Amongst these, the volitan lionfish is the most popular, and are the ones usually kept.
Nuisance Algae ID Guide
Oct 19th
Nuisance Algae ID Guide
This guide is a tool for aquarium hobbyists, and is not a scientific resource. Often time cyanobacteria rears its ugly head even though it is not an algae. But since most people look for a red slime algae when they want to find “cyano” (we use hobby terms as well), it makes sense to include them in an “Algae Guide”. Ditto for a lot of other things, also Derbesia and green hair algae (“GHA”) have seperate listings although most species of Derbesia make up what we commonly refer to as GHA. Well that is about it. If you have questions about a nuisance algae post them in our forum.
Cyano:
Powdery Nasty Mess on Sand Style:
Description: Red slimey mess. Can be long and stringy, can be brownish, can be powdery on your glass or rocks.
Manual Removal – wipe glass with mag float, etc… Light toothbrush harder corals covered and gorgs, and the rocks. Stir sand and siphon
Clean Up Crew- Ceriths, Nerites and Blue Legs
Why it happened – too much phosphate, and you probably have a phosphate imbalance. Meaning you probably have less than a 20:1 N:P ratio. Alkalinity may be a factor too.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Increase the flow in your tank to take care of dead spots. Are you using RO/DI? Either way check your source water for phosphates. Rinsing food helps as well.
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Film Algae:
A micro algae that dusts the glass.
Description: Green powdery film, or cloudiness. We are getting very general here, I am claiming a wide spectrum of species of green micro algae b/c you can be rid of it before you can id it. No plates, so take it easy on me with this id. (A marine biologist weeps… )
Manual Removal – wipe glass with mag float, etc… Light toothbrush other areas.
Clean Up Crew- Ceriths, Nerites astreas turbos limpets chitons snails love this stuff. so do many filter feeders and amphipods.
Why it happened – available nutrients and you get a bloom. Don’t get too worried, it is pretty common to get some spots every now and again. You may notice some tank cloudiness too, same thing (micro algae). Chronic problems are another thing, get your phosphate or nitrates down.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Cloudiness? Water change, prefilter with lots of active carbon. Blast the rocks with a turkey baster to stir up sediment, siphon and be done with it.
Tip – I think it is kind of cool if it happens only every now and then, pods seem to thrive on it and it recharges the system. Extended or large blooms are another story.
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Hair Algae:
Can also appear brownish like this:
Description: A variety of green filamentous algae are lumped together under Green Hair Algae, because identification requires a microscope.
Manual Removal – yank it out. If it is growing from the sand sift it out with a net.
Clean Up Crew- Blue Legs, bigger hermits, turbos, limpets, chitons
Why it happened – too much nutrients, both phosphate and nitrate.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Older light bulbs grow more hair algae as they drift towards the red spectrum.
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Derbesia sp. Turf Algae:
Nuisance Algae ID Guide
Description: Okay. So most of the GHA species are some type of Derbesia sp. But we don’t use microscopes, this is a “for hobbyist purposes only” guide, so please no replies about that. (Or that cyano isn’t an algae..we know but you get the point right…?)
Oh yeah back to the description – What most hobbyists call derbesia is reserved for those species of this genus that are turf like. They form dense mats, and have shorter hairs like the pictured.
Manual Removal – while pushing down on the back of the algae scrape your thumb against the rock dislodging the turf like mat of algae in one swoop. Let it get big enough so you have leverage. The 3reef member who removed this piece did it perfectly.
Clean Up Crew- Chitons, limpets bigger hermits etc… The hair algae crew but Chitons will love it if they find it.
Why it happened – too much nutrients, both phosphate and nitrate.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Older light bulbs grow more turf algae as they drift towards the red spectrum.
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Diatoms:
Description: Brown powdery like substance that can cake in extreme cases like the one above. Usually occurs right after a tank finishes its cycle.
Manual Removal – wipe glass with mag float, etc… A blast from a turkey baster takes care of rocks. Stir sand and siphon.
Clean Up Crew- Ceriths, Nerites and Chitons
Why it happened – bio available silica, probably from sand or rock or something plastic your recently added to the tank.
Starving it out – Diatoms starve themselves out, just try to keep something eating it in the mean time so it isn’t so ugly as it slowly removes the silica from your tank.
Tip – Pods love diatoms. Left with no predation from fish, and a steady supply of diatoms over a month’s time, (you do this by keeping the diatoms under control), you should be able to see rapid pod maturation in your tank.
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Bryopsis sp.
Click here to see the orignal image
As you can see in distant pictures it looks very similar to hair algae, and the two are often confused. Here is a link to a picture of Byropsis pennata, that is close up:
Notice the feather detail on the algae. This is what you are looking for in your tank to confirm or deny identification. If you do have it be prepared for a fight:
1. Try to get on it quickly. If it is only on one rock remove the rock, remove algae, starve of light in a QT.
2. Manual Removal – If that doesn’t work or get it all, remove all you can by hand. People will tell you not to do this because it will spread. Let me assure you, left untreated bryopsis will spread. Just be careful about it, and if you can pull the rock out to remove it all the better. If takes hold in the sand sift it out with a net. If you don’t remove the base of bryopsis you are wasting your time.
3. Starve it out – As always if you can get down nutrients nuisance algae has a harder time taking hold, or coming back after manual removal.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 aggressively.
5. If that doesn’t work try raising your magnesium to very high levels. I don’t want to be blamed if this causes losses in your tank, many people have done this with great success and minimal stress, but still….please do your research and don’t blame me if something goes wrong. I say QT. Here is a good article:
Reef Central Online Community – Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!
Tip: save your money on CUCs, if it is truly bryopsis the normally sold CUC members, (in regular numbers at least), will not finish it off, only pick at it which is what we can do with manual removal in 2 minutes time. Opaque cutouts shaped to cover an area of bryopsis can be put between the light source to shade them out. Remember fire and corrosion concerns, tupperware might work, but remember soap, chemical contaminant concerns…. Home Depot bucket lids make good cutouts.
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Bubble Algae
This is green bubble, one or more of the Valonia species:
Description: Almost cool looking, almost. Can have a metallic look to it. Once it takes hold it can grow very fast and dominate a tank in a month.
Manual Removal – Don’t be clumsy and spread this one. Get em small, cover them with a baster, scrape the baster along the rock, when the Valonia comes off release the plunger and suck it up. Discard and repeat. If you have a lot to do, by the time you are done you will be ready to add new mixed water to complete the water change. Be aggressive with your manual removal.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Juvenile Emeralds are better for the task, the smaller the better. Get one per handful amount of the bubble. (After aggressive manual removal, remember to limit based on tank size etc….that recommendation is only based on the bubble algae – it does not consider the crabs needs do your research, etc….)
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Lobophora sp. (Usually variegata):
Description- Brown semi rigid but slippery macro algae. Often confused with plating coralline, the slippery rubbery feel is a give away if you don’t want to use scientific methods to determine the id.
Manual Removal – Difficult. Qting the rock in an extended dark cycle is the best way. Good thing it doesn’t spread rock to rock too fast. A chisel or a flexible knife like a putty blade works, but you got to get it all, and take some of the rock just to be sure.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs (best bet here), Sea Hares, some Turbos, Chitons, Limpets, Tangs, Urchins, will pick at it, but it is likely to persist, but at least it will be controlled.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Under the right lighting it can take on amazing colors. Also, it is not calcified despite its appearance.
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Blue Green Cyano:
Description: Forms a slimy mat of green goop for lack of a better term. Usually greenish despite name, but can be darker as it appears in this picture.
Removal: This stuff is difficult to get rid of, but can be done if you persevere. Capable of surviving in low to zero light and without nitrates, it only needs phosphates in your tank to feed off of. You can prevent it by utilizing mangroves and macroalgae that will reduce the phosphates in your tank and prevent it from forming. If you have a break out and are trying to deal with an established problem, then you should consider adding a chemical phosphate removal system to kill it. The setup, (you need a phosban reactor and a filter media), may run you up to $75, before tubing and getting your tank setup going. Increase flow to dead spots.
Fun Fact: Scientists believe Blue Green Cyano was one of the first life forms on our planet.
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Dinoflagellates
Description- Light brownish menace. It looks like snot growing up from the rock or sand, with trapped air bubbles in it. Not to be confused with algae that has an air bubble that has landed on it, dinos make them. Not all species of dinos are bad the one pictured is though, and has caused many aquarists to tear down their tanks.
Manual Removal – Remove the rock and place it in a large saucepan. Add water enough to cover the rock. Boil the tar out of it. Rinse and repeat with scrubbing in between. Let dry for 3 days in sun. Okay maybe not that far, but….
Clean Up Crew- Don’t bother.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Reduce your phosphates and other nutrients. Iron needs to be controlled. (Everybody forgets about Iron but that can cause problems too.)
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Calothrix
Calothrix Cyano Algae
Description- Light slimey yet hair fuzz like nastiness. Air bubbles are trapped just like the nuisance pictured above. Calothrix is a type of blue green algae that looks very similar to Dinos. We have them next to each other in the guide to help you distinguish the difference between the two.
Manual Removal – Remove the rock and scrub, and then fine tune with a toothbrush. Let the cleaners get the rest.
Clean Up Crew – Chitons, Nerites and we are looking into others.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Still learning, send me feedback. Especially on how long your photocycle was prior to outbreak, I think these might be a species similar to the “dock algae” found on boat ramps. My boaters without a dock know what I am talking about. 
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Gelidium:
Description: Species in this genus, (and the similar Coelthrix sp. which looks similar but is purple-sort of), cling to the rock, and spread from a runner. The branches do not get tall, and they are often found on frags of coral.
Manual Removal – Difficult. Macros that have fragile runners and creep along the rock are the hardest to manually remove. Do the best you can. Use a dental pick to do the most damage, DO NOT BRUSH. You will dislodge it and spread it. Yeah I know, it is boring as can be, but if you do it once surgically with a dental pick the problem goes away for good. If you can take the rock out, all the better.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs, urchins, sea hares, large turbos, shore shrimp. Small emerald crabs would be my first choice if it took hold in a narrow crevice b/c they could reach it.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
Tip – Don’t pass on frags with this stuff, don’t put one in your tank. This algae has become extremely common on traded/aquacultured frags,. Every customer I have talked to has said this was how it was introduced. So my advice is every time you add a coral or a rock look for it from now on. If you have it just keep at it, it takes a while but it can be beat back, at least you don’t have bryopsis.
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Cladophoropsis:
Description: Species in this genus, and related ones, cling to the rock, and spread from a runner. The branches do not get tall, and they are often found with hobbyist frags.
Manual Removal – Difficult. Macros that have fragile runners and creep along the rock are the hardest to manually remove. Do the best you can. Get a dental pick and get it all the first time and be done with it.
Clean Up Crew- Not sure. small rock boring urchins will kill any macro just sitting on a rock like that. try an emerald crab and let us know how it goes.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – ?? Never seen it in person, help me out here.
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Callithamnion aka Cotton Candy Algae
Description: The pictured specimen is quite good looking, it usually appears as a light pink fuzz. It is not coarse, and should sway in the current. (Stiff specimens are likely to be other species that look similar). The macro has very fine “branches” that are covered in even finer hairs. The plants are very small.
Manual Removal – Easy if it hasn’t taken hold in places your fingers won’t fit. Scrape your thumb on the surface it is attached too while holding the algae like a pencil as you remove it. This helps you get the small holdfast.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs, urchins, sea hares, large turbos, and some of the larger hermits.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – This algae is not widespread in nature, but can be locally abundant. It seems to be coming in on frags, and most of the people I know with it have received it on a traded frag. You can just pick this one out manually if it hasn’t made it way to the crevices of your rockwork.
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Red Bubble Algae
Description: This is Red Bubble Algae, one of the Botryocladia species, (probably skottsbergeii or pyriformis) . Some of the Botryocladia species, like Botryocladia occidentalis, are desirable. The main difference between an invasive species of Botryocladia and a desirable one is how it grows. Desirable species grow up from branches, and invasive species creep along the rock just leaving hard to remove bubbles. Some are in between both in risk and branch development.
Manual Removal – Don’t be clumsy and spread this one. Get em small, cover them with a baster, scrape the baster along the rock, when the bubble comes off release the plunger and suck it up. Discard and repeat. If you have a lot to do, by the time you are done you will be ready to add new mixed water to complete the water change. Be aggressive with your manual removal.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Juvenile Emeralds are better for the task, the smaller the better. Get one per handful amount of the bubble. (After aggressive manual removal, remember to limit based on tank size etc….that recommendation is only based on the bubble algae – it does not consider the crabs needs do your research, etc….)
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Dictyota sp.:
Description- Brown algae, has forked branches may have iridescent blue hue. Here is the thing with the dictyota sp. – there are tons and w/out a microscope the best you can get it down to is like a handful of different species. If it is a brown algae, with forked branches, is not rigid, it is probably dictyota. Some species of Dictyota are desirable, you will be able to recognize them as they grow as one plant that branches out from one distinct holdfast. Removal would be very simple. Nuisance species of Dictyota, (pretty much all the iridescent sp.) stay shorter and creep along the rock. Their branches form straight from the rock, and there is no trunk like feature to the algae, or easily discernible holdfast.
Manual Removal – Difficult. Qting the rock in an extended dark cycle is the best way. It spreads fast, you may want to jump on it. If that isn’t possible, take a dental pick and scrape off every inch of holdfast you can. Get it all the first time and be done with it. At the least get it down to its minimum so the cleaners can polish it off.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs (best bet here), Sea Hares, some Turbos, Chitons, Limpets, Tangs, Urchins, will pick at it, but it is likely to persist, but at least it will be controlled.
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Under the right lighting it can take on amazing bright blue and green colors. It is a matter of light refraction, more than the health of the species but that also plays a part.
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Chondria:
Description: Species in this genus look like translucent red plants cylindrical plants with irregular branching. They make stick to the rocks only like Chondria repens, or they can brach and are bushier like Chondria minutula. The important thing in identification is look how the “branches” have smaller branches
Manual Removal – Somewhat Difficult. Macros that have fragile runners and creep along the rock are the hardest to manually remove. Get the holdfast, if you miss it get it with tweezers or a dental pick, etc…
Clean Up Crew- Just manually remove. If it is a too much of it, then emerald crabs, larger hermits, urchins, etc…
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Easier to remove than gelidium, but it has similar features, including a holdfast that will creep along the rocks to some degree.
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Caulerpa Racemosa:
Grape Caulerpa
Description- green macro algae with grape like features. It grows from a runner, and the plants sprout up. Highly variable, those variations that creep along the rock are the worst.
Manual Removal -If you are going to manually remove it, use a dental pick to make sure you get every last bit of runner removed.
Clean Up Crew- Emerald Crabs (an overall good choice), Sea Hares (Advanced Aquarists only with minimal intakes in the tank), Tangs, Urchins, some Turbos, Chitons, Limpets,…
Why it happened – You didn’t quarantine, and you have available nutrients for it Or you bought it on some bad advice, or were willing to take a challenge and it back fired. This is is the on nuisance algae that is pretty commonly sold.
Starving it out – Use a phosban reactor or a macro like chaeto to take down phosphate. If you have a nitrate problem too, you can add more live rock or rubble to the tank, do some more wcs, add macro, add dsb, etc…
John’s Tip – Caulerpa racemosa in all its forms is invasive. Its runner is too fragile to practically prune and it can be a frustrating problem. If you like the look of grape caulerpa, try Caulerpa cupressoides var. lycopodium. It carries the same risks as other caulerpas, but its strong sturdy holdfast makes pruning easy.
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Salt Creep a problem on your Saltwater Aquarium?
Oct 15th
How do I get rid of “salt creep?”
A: Salt creep is a very common, and messy problem that marine aquarists deal with on a regular basis. Usually a good plastic tipped scrub brush and some hot water will do the trick. However, long term salt creep might leave deposits that are very difficult to remove, sometimes impossible. I definitely do not recommend anything toxic near the tank, lights, or filters for simple reasons. If you use a manufacturer’s product, check to see if it’s aquarium safe. If there is excess salt creep, sometimes it’s good to remove some of the tank water, and using a “catch” to avoid the salt from falling into the water, or electrical connections.
Salt Creep
Coral Reef Formation
Oct 9th
Coral reefs form in shallow water that is at a nice warm temperature. Coral forms near land and in the tropics. They are very rich in life. Clown fish and many other organisms can be found here. Coral reefs are very tall and can stretch for miles. The coral is formed by polyps, and when they die they leave behind a stony limestone structure. Only the coral that are hard can form coral. It is very vulnerable to death. If it is kicked, even slightly, it will most likely die. Coral can also die by turning white. There are three types of coral: fringing coral, barrier coral, and coral atolls. Fringing coral forms along continental shelves and coast lines. Barrier coral runs parallel to the shorelines and are separated by lagoon. Coral atolls grow on top of old sunken volcanoes. Coral reefs are a very important ecosystem. They contain a lot of rich resources such as new medicines. They are very delicate and even a slight temperature change can stress them. Chemicals kill them and can block the needed sunlight out. Coral reefs are usually found in bright colors such as: orange, tan, yellow, purple, and green. Coral reefs will be wiped out very shortly so we really need to protect them.
Do Koi Sleep?
Oct 7th
Do Fish Sleep?
And other crazy fish facts …
Fish actually sleep.
Not in the same manner that we understand, but they do sleep. Fish do not have eyelids so they are unable to close their eyes. Instead, fish catch periods of rest by floating in one place or nestling into a cozy spot at the bottom of your pond.
Stressed out.
Koi show stress by blushing red in their fins and on their bodies. This is caused by a stressful environment, such as poor water quality. It’s their way of showing you, their caretaker, that something is wrong.
They have teeth, my dear.
Koi are equipped with rather large teeth at the back of their throat. They do not use them defensively or aggressively but rather to process any hard-to-chew food they come across at the pond bottom.
Boy or girl?
Female koi tend to have rounder bodies and smaller, rounded pectoral fins while male koi are larger, have a sleeker shape, and their pectoral fins are larger and pointed.
Hear, hear!
Koi hear through a type of amplifying system called a Weberian apparatus that other fish do not have. It consists of four pairs of bones called ossicles that connect the inner ear to the swim bladder. The connection of the air chamber to the inner ear greatly improves their ability to hear.